Question on "Bad Axe 2" D975XbX2/C2D E6700 overclock

[brash_endeavors]

I've never overclocked and have a newbie question. Overclocking is new to me, and I wasn't really originally intending to overclock at all, but wanted to try a rather conservative "easy" overclock on a brand new Conroe system just to see .. well, if I could, I guess.

My full system specs are:

Core 2 Duo E6700
BFG GeForce 8800GTX
2GB CORSAIR XMS2
Intel "Bad Axe 2" D975XBX2 (bios flashed to 12/20's 2395 version)
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750W
LIAN LI PC-V1000BPlus II case
WD Raptor 74GB 10K SATA150
WD CaviarSE16 320GB 7.2K SATA3
SAMSUNG dual layer 18X DVD±R w/LightScribe
Sony dvd drive
Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional
Sennheiser EH350 Headphones

I find any reference to voltages very intimidating, but I did see a post suggesting that a very simple overclock might be done at stock voltages at 300mhz for cpu and lowering the memory from 800FSB to 533, so I tried that and golly it worked! Although I did the changes in BIOS/CMOS, I used the Intel Desktop Control Panel to try to verify it was stable by running a 15 minute test it has, and CPU-Z confirmed the memory was at 1:1 like the other post claimed was ideal for stability. My highest cpu temp under load was 56C, and the post I was reading implied that meant there were very good odds I could just as easily change cpu to 333 and memory to 667 to keep a 1:1 ratio and still stay stable.

(All of that sounds like I know what it MEANS, I don't, but it did make it easy to set the numbers as they said)

Back in Windows, the new settings also stayed stable under testing, temperatures were still very good -- but now I had a new problem. The 667 setting I had put memory at, seems to have changed after saving in CMOS, to 416/835 or something according to IDCC & CPU-Z, and CPU-Z reported I was no longer 1:1 but now 4:5. I a very concerned this is a less "ideal" setting so I rebooted, but CMOS insisted the memory 667 setting was still there. The only thing I can think of, is my memory & board have something called EPP (Enhanced Performance Profiles) and I don't undertsand if that means my computer is "adjusting" my settings after I make them, and if so if I should just trust that it knows what it is doing. Or if I need to change something to make it "stick" to a 1:1 setting and 667 for the memory?


Sorry if this rambles or is unclear as I am .. a newb. Please keep any advice/explanations extremely simple.

Do I need to change anything to get an "ideal" 1:1 ratio for stability, and if so how do I manage this?

I also took this screenshot to show the settings in Windows: http://brashendeavors.net/pix/overclock_e6700.jpg

[mobo57]

Hey brash welcome to sysopt. Hopefully you have read the thread here: http://www.sysopt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194693.
You will want to set your memory at 533 to get the 1:1. What will happen is the higher you take your multi, the higher the memory will go and limit your overclocking. Your system should be good for at least a 370 to 400 fsb with a reasonable nudge in the volts.

[brash_endeavors]

I can read it but not necessarily understand it ^_^

However I went back into BIOS and changed the memory back to 266/533 and you are right that puts it right at 1:1 again Yay -- thank you so much.

I'll bookmark and keep reading that link and maybe the 8th or 9th time, a little lightbulb will go off ....

[brash_endeavors]

Orthos & TAT show my cpu running a bit hotter under full testing than I think is good, around 70C-75C during full testing. Even more odd, it shows roughly the same temps at both stock (2.6ghz) and at 3.20ghz. Temperatures had displayed *MUCH* lower (mid 50s) using the Intel Desktop COntrol Center's stress tests + temp display, but I will assume that Ortho & TAT are far more accurate, and working the cpu much harder.

I am using the intel retail cooler with Artic Alumina Premium Ceramic Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (which I already had around the house). I was very careful applying the artic alumina to follow the core 2 duo instructions using the "thin line" method, prepping the heatsink first, and finally rotating the heatsink back and forth a tiny bit to spread, with "cooldown" periods the first day or so.

If I switch to Artic Silver 5 and a third party fan, what fan would work well without costing a lot (under $50). I m a little klutzy and have always had a hard time installing cpu fans over the years, so one with an easy installation clip would be a plus. Does Artic SIlver 5 make big improvement over the Artic Alumina? I don't want to spend a lot as I am not going to be overclocking very aggressively and just 3.2ghz on the E6700 would likely be fine but that TAT number worries me, especially showing the same temps under Orthos at stock speeds.

[mobo57]

There are two temps for your cpu. The higher temps are the on core temps with a max of 80C. The lower are the diode temp with a max of about 60C. TAT measures the on core temps. Your temps are high, though within range. Orthos and TAT will cause the temps to be very high as both stress the cpu to the max.
Any of the Arctic products are better than the stock junk. AS5 is the best, followed by ceramic and alum together. I prefer ceramic. Not quite as good as AS5, but it is safe as it will not conduct electricity like AS5 will.
Here are my suggestions for coolers:
The Zalman S9700 is a good one: http://www.zalmanusa.com/
So is the Big Typhoon: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...0/cl-p0310.asp
Make sure you have good case ventilation, that can help to get those temps down. I suggest at least a 120c fan in and one for exhaust.

[brash_endeavors]

The Lian Li case has three 120 fans I think. We did do a rather messy job arranging all the cables from the octupus-like PC Power & Cooling PSU, there was just so much wiring everywhere, so it's a little tangled in there (and yes I know that makes cooling issues worse) so I am a bit dubious about finding room for some of the really huge fans that seem to be most in vogue, also some appear to have rather difficult installation and I have always had a struggle getting cpu fans on and off.

This is the Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound we used; it had been sitting in a drawer from a previous project a year or so ago. Apparently it is ceramic based? Would cleaning it off and reapplying Artic Silver 5 make much difference?

How risky do you think it would be leaving things at the status quo? We don't do heavy stuff like video encoding, the main stress on the system would be running a game such as Everquest 2 or Oblivion at rather high resolution. Part of our motivatin for overclocking the E6700 was we were told it would create less bottleneck for a 8800GTX in those games. Or if we SHOULD get a new cpu fan, what is the most compact & so-simple-grandma-could-do-it choice? I am just a klutz with tight fits and spaces.

And thank you VERY much for so much courteous help & advice!!!

[brash_endeavors]

It looks like all of our 120 fans are exhaust/out, do you think we should flip one around to pull air in? We seem to get about the same temps whether the side panels are on or off (I haven't checked that thoroughly)

edit: I like the little installation video Zalman has on their site for the S9700, that doesn't look too bad so I think we might look into getting that one, thanks! I'll assume the artic alumina paste we used before is better than the little paint-on one Zalman includes? Or are they close enough to not matter?

[mobo57]

Turn one of the fans around to be directing the air onto the mobo, your cpu should drop a few degrees, but your north/south bridge's will appreciate it even more. That thermal paste should be fine as long as it is not dried out. My choice would be the Zalman. It's a good cooler and should drop your temps by 5 to 8C. I had it on my rig before I went to H2O. It did a much better job than the stock HSF under load. It is a bit of a bugger to install, but once in it does a very good job and is not a big block like some of the other gigantic monsters out there.