is it barton?

[rolltrain]

if it is a 2500+ 333 512 and 128 cache fsb and doesnt say its barton just says XP....is it still a barton?

[Disk11]

Should be. Download either WCPUID or CPUz and post the 1st screen you see. Make sure you make it a .jpg so it's bandwidth friendly

[rolltrain]

haven't bought it yet.....waiting to hear if it is in fact barton. I think it is since even the 3200+ 400fsb doesn't say barton but it surely is. Just wanted to check with you proffesionals first before I make another big mistake like I did when I bouhgt my lousy 5600 FX

[ch0wdy^]

the 2500+ is indeed a barton

[rolltrain]

nice. It is now ordered. Too bad even when it gtes here I will have to wait till I can get some new RAM. should be about 2 weeks then I will let you guys guide me through burning it up.errr.I mean overclocking it. 2500megahertz here I come.

[Someone Stupid]

2,5 ghz is HARD to hit. I have hit 2.4 only to have my system die from no AC when I was out. Ever since then, after I was able to get it back to 2.2ghz stable it then started back unstable after a couple days. Running with a 400fsb in sync with memory (3200) is what causes it (so it was the nb that took the heat hit, not the cpu). Now I can just boost the fsb and not the memory and have no problems, but Althons don't like it. Not sure if your losing performance or just not gaining very much from clocking it that way to make it not worthwhile. I just know that either way it isn't worth it to be burning the hell out the chip for a slight performance gain that looks like it's a huge one.

Getting the chip to 2.5ghz can be expensive once cooling is factored in - the newer batches are clocking better, but 2.5 isn't some easy to hit number even with the newer batches... expect a lot of headaches getting there. You'll get 11 x 200 (so get ddr3200) or 2.2ghz which is the 3200+ speed exactly without any real problems. When you start going over it your starting to really push the chip and northbridge (and the nb will be what fails first). You'll probably need watercooling for the cpu and northbridge as mine was getting rather hot, though I had to pump 1.9 volts into it, thus it was pulling a good 120 watts cpu alone. Then you have to raise the vdd to 1.8 or 2.0 (if 2.0 it HAS to be watercooled) if you really want to try and get a high FSB as your base to work from with the multipliers. Then you need to cool the mosfets and southbridge. You will also need a good PSU that gives you plenty of headroom to keep it stable.

It's cheaper to just get a 2.4C from intel and OC it than to pay for all the extra cooling to still have a 2.4C run faster than it. If the board ever dies (and it seems like it will), that's the direction I'm going.

[RamonGTP]

2.5 GHz may be a little tough... But getting 2.2GHz is fairly easy and the temps are well under control... I'm usually in the mid 40's with my Barton 2500+ @ 3200+

[ch0wdy^]

Ramon what cooler are you using?

[RamonGTP]

I'm using a Volcano 7+ (the all copper one) with the fan set to medium... With some AS3 of course.

[Someone Stupid]

Lap it and your temps will drop a solid 2C, mine dropped 4C after lapping (though it was only on long enough for the SLK and the 120mm adaptor to arrive).

[$1500-P4 gamer]

ANY XP that says 512 L2 cache is Barton. No questions asked. THat simple.