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beginner
02-02-2000, 01:15 PM
Thanks alpha, you make it sound so easy. I CAN find explanations of some of the parts your talking about on this site, right?
Like the name says, a beginner, so bare with me. And you had a good idea maybe me building this can help me collect the life ins. policy we have on my fiance (don't take me seriously, either).

Dominus - do you have any ideas on compatibility problems with the amd board and other components?

And what about the bios, how do I go about that? and I can find them on the SysOpt.com site, right?

Thanks again to both.



[This message has been edited by beginner (edited 02-02-2000).]

alpha
02-02-2000, 01:18 PM
Yep, you should find some explanations right here!

Dominus
02-02-2000, 02:48 PM
2 key points to remember:

1. A 300 watt power supply (ATX) seems to be a must for Athlon systems. (pre-0.18u fab K7s that is)

2. Some people find the SoundBlaster Live! cards to be a problem in Athlon boards, but in my opinion, those cards are nothing *but* problems. Give me my AWE64 Gold any day.


Other than that, you should have little trouble.

If you have any questions on other parts in your system, please ask.

If you feel adventurous, you can wait a few weeks for the first generation of KX133 chipset motherboards to come out. They're gonna rock!

sugrdade
02-02-2000, 07:37 PM
a question about a post above...

why should you use the paper washers with the brass standoffs when connecting the motherboard to the case? There is not metal to metal contact...so what would the problem be? My system seems to be running fine without them....but am concerned....

tonym
02-02-2000, 08:33 PM
Alpha,

Your explanation as to the assembly is OKAY by me, EXCEPT:

forget about the cardboard washers! In the ATX case(or AT for that matter), the chassis ground IS the mobo logic ground, and unless you want a potiential EMC problem (wicked RF emissions) out slots and cables, it's a good idea to make sure that the mobo is secured with metal washers and the brass standoffs. If you like, you can use a screw/lock washer/washer/mobo/washer/standoff profile to secure mobo to the chassis. This is particularly important with >=100MHz FSB mobos like the Athlon. If you look at the distance from srew-to-screw, they're spaced at 1/20 of a wavelenght of 100MHz...the proper distance to ensure that a good RF ground is present to at least 10 harmonics of 100MHz (1GHZ).

And notice that we're not concerned about the Athlon clock speed...it's localized in a small area on the SECC format board, with mighty good signal integrity designed-in and guaranteed.

Now if you don't particularly care about your or your immediate neighbor's radio reception, that's another story altogether!!!!!


Have fun and keep on building...


Tony

beginner
02-03-2000, 12:07 AM
I've read several articles, now I'm not sure
I was gonna try to build an Ahtlon. Is there
someone out there that could tell me yes or no or if so where to start. Start from scratch or with a kit? which is cheaper if at all.
thanks

alpha
02-03-2000, 12:54 AM
Building a PC's a doss! I can build one in about an hour if all goes smoothly, usually around 2 hours.

Just buy some ram (should be amd approved), a case with a 300watt PSU, a graphics card, drives and a sound card, motherboard (I'd recommend an FIC or gigabyte for an Athlon from what I've heard, and an Athlon, with a heatsink and fan, amd approved, of course http://www.sysopt.com/forum/wink.gif.

All you need to do is
1. TAKE ANTISTATIC PRECAUTIONS!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.sysopt.com/forum/redface.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/redface.gif

2. Open the case

3. Hold the board over the bottom of it (don't let it touch the bottom or it could short) and line the holes in it up with those in the bottom of the case.

4. Insert standoffs (spacers, supplied with case) into the holes that matched with the board. Remember, if the standoff is a metal screw in one (usually brass), you'll need a littly washer type thing a) on the standoff under the board and b) between the screw and mobo.Plastic standoffs either push into the case from the bottom, from the top, or into slot in like a keyhole and they then just push into the board.

5. Insert the board onto the standoffs. Make sure to use the little washer-type-rings that insulate when using brass and other metal standoffs.

6. Find the large (20pin, i think) connector coming out of the PSU and find a corresponding slot on the board. Insert the connector into the board. Remember, it's keyed and will only fit in properly one way.

7. Take the Athlon and insert it into SlotA on the board. Then, mount the heatsink, preferably using the support, but not always required. I don't think thermal compound is required on the Athlon, but if you stick a thin layer between the chip and heatsink, it can't hurt http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif I'm not too up on mounting heatsinks on SlotA chips and the like (I'm a socket7 man http://www.sysopt.com/forum/wink.gif), so you should get all the gory details from the SlotA crowd.

8. Take your graphics card. It will either be PCI or AGP, AGP being quicker. Find a free PCI or AGP slot, unscrew the little cover for the slots in the case, or if the case is new and has none, punch out the perforated markings. Insert the card into the slot. It may require a little bit of force, but be CAREFUL not to stress the card, as you could break circuits or the whole card!!! Screw in the card once it's FULLY inserted. Give the card a push to make sure it's in firmly.

9. Insert the sound card in a similar manner, though it may need an ISA slot, usually long and black. Again, be careful.

10. Remove the front drivebay covers by either pushing hard from the inside or by carefully prying them with a screwdriver from the outside. Keep them, as you may need them.

11. Find the IDE leads and attach one to your harddisk. Make sure you have it the right way around. I can't quite describe the positioning of them, but I'm sure one of the guys will fill ye in. Make sure the red wire on the leed matches up to the pin1 marking on the drive.

12. Do the same for the FDD and the DVD or CD drive (a CD or DVD can be on the same cable as a HDD, but performance is better on seperate ones http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif). Then, CAREFULLY feed the cable through the drive bay from the outside and put the drive in the bay and screw it it. Make sure you use the correct screw size, there are two standard ones in computing and makesure that a screw is not as long as to puncture a HDD! Then, insert the other end of the leads into the correct outlet on the board, consulting your mobo manual for directions. Now, insert the Rectangular power connectors into the CD or DVD and HDD. They are keyed and should not be TOO stiff if inserted correcly. Make sure they are in fully to avoid data loss. The, insert the smaller connector running off one of the larger ones from the PSU (or possibly seperate) and connect it to the FDD. Again, it's keyed.

13. CHECK EVERYTHING!!!!!!!

14. I think you're ready to roll


PLEASE read you board manual FIRST to check with jumper sttings and the like. Remember, a PC won't boot even if just the IDE lead is the wrong way around. Good luck! PLEASE email me if you get it working!

Disclaimer:
I am not responsible, if, by following these steps, you completly knaker your components, kill your dog or loose your fionce.

Don't take that the wrong way! http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/smile.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/wink.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/wink.gif http://www.sysopt.com/forum/redface.gif!

Dominus
02-03-2000, 12:55 AM
I'd suggest starting from scratch. It would be slightly cheaper (very slightly), and you'd get a bit more experince on choosing the components and building the system.


One tip: DO NOT buy the FIC SD11 board no matter what anyone tells you. The GigaByte 7IX is a good choice for a beginner; the Asus K7M requires a bit more expertise.


Always check to make sure that some computer store salesman isn't just trying to make a buck.


And if you have any more questions, post them here.

alpha
02-03-2000, 10:21 AM
I use the paper washers and I get NO problems when using any electrical equipment.
I was told that you could short the board if you didn'T use the paper washers. Besides, I think it still makes a bit of contact.