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j.m@talk
09-11-2008, 01:29 PM
Wheels ...... What do I put on the corrosion to halt it ? :eek:

JPnyc
09-11-2008, 01:48 PM
Any type of sealant coating, a synthetic one, should do. I don't know what you have over there. here we have things like nufinish, but I'm not sure what your equivalent is.

mireland
09-11-2008, 03:11 PM
Wheels ...... What do I put on the corrosion to halt it ? :eek:


pee on it... :D

Shoreguy
09-11-2008, 04:34 PM
Content
10.1 Uniform corrosion or weathering
10.2 Pitting corrosion
10.3 Crevice or concentration cell corrosion
10.4 Galvanic corrosion
10.5 Other corrosion forms
10.6 Effect on aluminium alloys
10.7 Corrosion inhibition

Unprotected surfaces of low alloy steels and aluminium alloys are subject to several forms of chemical or electrochemical attack collectively known as corrosion. Electrochemical corrosion generally involves oxygen, an electrolyte and electron transfer, converting metal to a metallic compound. When combined with fatigue it is the significant contributor to airframe ageing. Stainless steels are not immune to some forms of corrosion.

Electrolytes are electrically conductive solutions produced when atmospheric condensation, precipitation or moisture from other sources is contaminated with salts, acids or alkalies. Those contaminants normally exist in the atmosphere and the surface soils in various concentrations or may be intentionally or unintentionally deposited on the airframe and then combined with moisture. Obviously coastal environments promote corrosion but there are also high salt levels in the airborne dust in many inland areas of Australia. The most common forms of corrosion are: uniform corrosion, pitting, crevice corrosion and galvanic corrosion.
10.1 Uniform corrosion or weathering
Even relatively pure water is an electrolyte so when exposed to normal atmospheric moisture and oxygen, bare steels like 4130 will soon acquire a thin, visible, all-over film of loosely adhering oxidised iron or red rust which, if left untreated and exposed to atmosphere moisture, will continue to oxidise (i.e. convert) more of the metal. If the member is a thin-walled tube the rate of uniform corrosion is such that the strength of the structure will be continually reducing and will eventually reach a critical level. The rate of corrosion is affected by temperature; each 10° C rise in temperature will double the rate of oxidation. So AISI 4130 steel must be coated inside and outside with a non-conducting material which will also stop, or at least inhibit, the amounts of oxygen or moisture reaching the metal. Indeed it is sometimes advisable to part fill critical tubing components, such as a wing strut fuselage carry-through tube, with a corrosion inhibiting oil.

Aluminium however reacts to exposure to a normal clean atmosphere by developing a passive [i.e. non-reacting] aluminium oxide film over its surface, which protects the metal from further oxidation in similar atmospheric conditions and the structural strength is retained. The film has two layers, a very thin, tightly adhering inner barrier layer and a much thicker outer porous layer, which are integral to each other and to the base material, i.e. the film is not a 'coating' and in normal conditions will restore itself if damaged*. Thus most aluminium alloys don't need protective coating just to resist normal weathering if the pH of solutions contacting the metal are within the 4.5–8 range. Lead and copper both form a protective passive film similar to aluminium.

( *Operating in conditions where the metal is exposed to dust/sand abrasion will still lead to accelerated loss of metal.)

By the way the naturally occurring aluminium oxide — corundum — is not far behind diamond in the ranking of hardest minerals, which is why sanding pads/sheets coated with very fine aluminium oxide grit are a favoured tool in aircraft surface coating applications.

A thicker aluminium oxide film can be induced, in controlled electrochemical processes, on formed aluminium to produce a hard wearing [but not impact resistant] anodised surface highly resistant to corrosion. During processing the initially soft and porous outer film will also accept various dyes to add colour [black, blue, green, red, gold etc] for an aesthetically pleasing appearance which is particularly popular for architectural extrusions. The dye is sealed into the anodised layer when the layer hardens. Some aircraft kit manufacturers supply their completed wing spars anodised and dyed — gold seems a favourite. If incorrectly performed anodising can lead to hydrogen embrittlement of the metal so it is a process that should be left to the experts.

Anodising should not be confused with alodining [a chromate conversion coating for aluminium to improve corrosion resistance] which imparts a yellowish colour to the metal. Alodine is a trade name.
10.2 Pitting corrosion
Pitting corrosion is the most destructive form of aluminium corrosion, developing at localised weak spots in the oxide barrier when contaminants (like the salts in sea air and inland dust, or in spray thrown up from asphalted surfaces) produce an active solution sufficient to destabilise the protective aluminium oxide film and attack the metal. The reaction commences localised pitting which continues to accelerate; the depth of the subsequent cavities may be greater than the width and the cavity may be concealed by the powdery corrosion products. Although they may not be readily visible, pits in the very thin sheet [~ 0.016 inch/0.4 mm] used in light aircraft stressed skins act as stress raisers/concentrators and can suddenly evolve into stress fractures.

Deep chloride corrosion pits have been found in stainless steel fuel injector lines and control cable/rod terminal fittings. Where such components are subject to tensile stress in normal operation over time the pitting corrosion may initiate sub-surface stress corrosion cracking [see below] .
10.3 Crevice or concentration cell corrosion
The process is similar to pitting corrosion except that it occurs in the very narrow gaps between faying surfaces where the solution concentrates by capillary or other action. Some moisture evaporates and the remaining solution trapped in the crevice becomes stagnant and increasingly corrosive. (Moisture deposited on metal will absorb carbon-dioxide from the atmosphere and form a mild carbonic acid which increases the electrolytic function). Crevice corrosion is often brought about by poor sealing/protection practices when applying/rinsing off acid etch cleaning solutions prior to painting. If dust containing salt is allowed to remain trapped in joints hygroscopic action will eventuate in a corrosion cell. Water staining found between bundled and stored aluminium sheets is a form of crevice corrosion.

[Faying surfaces are surfaces that are closely connected and thus unable to be inspected without dismantling; for example the surfaces within riveted joints or between bolt or rivet heads and the metal being fastened. Faying or fayed is a term that originated in wood shipbuilding indicating a very close joint between timbers.]
10.4 Galvanic corrosion
When two dissimilar metals or alloys are in close contact in the presence of an electrolyte, a galvanic cell may be formed in which spontaneous electrochemical corrosion occurs. Oxidation occurs at the more active metal (the anode) and electrons flow from the anode to the less active metal (the cathode). The anodic metal corrodes but the cathodic metal may not; in a galvanic couple aluminium alloys are anodic to most other metals [see the following galvanic series table] so additional steps must taken to separate the two metals — by using a corrosion inhibiting compound [CIC] for example.

In this table — MIL-STD-889 "Galvanic series in salt water environment" — the smaller the value the more active the material i.e. the more anodic; the greater the value the more cathodic the material. Thus for any two metals in contact the further apart they are in the table the greater the possibility for, and the extent of, galvanic corrosion — the more anodic material [the smaller number] combines with oxygen atoms from any electrolyte present to form an oxide of the metal i.e. the anodic metal will decompose while the cathodic metal is not affected.

However the greater the mass of cathodic material relative to the anodic material the greater the amount and rate of galvanic corrosion and vice versa — thus an aluminium rivet in a stainless steel tube will corrode very quickly in galvanic cell conditions — i.e. it is not good practice for the anodic material to be the smaller mass in a potential galvanic cell.
(http://www.auf.asn.au/scratchbuilder/corrosion.html) ...

Shoreguy
09-11-2008, 04:35 PM
Magnesium
Mg alloy AZ-31B
Mg alloy HK-31A
Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
Beryllium (hot pressed)
Aluminium 7072 clad on 7075
Al 2014-T3
Al 1160-H14
Al 7079-T6
Cadmium (plated)
Al 218 (die cast)
Al 5052-0
Al 5052-H12
Al 5456-0, H353
Al 5052-H32
Al 1100-0
Al 3003-H25
Al 6061-T6
Al A360 (die cast)
Al 7075-T6
Al 6061-0
Indium
Al 2014-0
Al 2024-T4
Al 5052-H16
Tin (plated)
Lead
Steel 1020
Iron (cast)
Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
Nickel (plated)
Chromium (plated)
Tantalum
Stainless steel 310
Stainless steel 301
Stainless steel 304
Stainless steel 430
Stainless steel 410
Stainless steel 17-7PH
Tungsten
Brass, yellow, 268
Brass, naval, 464
Muntz metal 280
Brass (plated)
Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
Bronze 220
Copper 110
Brass, red
Stainless steel 347
Molybdenum, commercial pure
Copper-nickel 715
Brass, Admiralty
Stainless steel 202
Bronze, phosphor 534
Monel 400
Stainless steel 201
Stainless steel 321
Stainless steel 316
Stainless steel 309
Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
Silicone bronze 655
Stainless steel 304 (passive)
Stainless steel 301 (passive)
Stainless steel 321 (passive)
Stainless steel 201 (passive)
Stainless steel 286 (passive)
Stainless steel 316L (passive)
Stainless steel 202 (passive)
Titanium
Silver
Gold
Graphite
Note: the passive forms of stainless steel alloys deter galvanic activity because passivation entails oxidizing the surface thus making it more inert.
10.5 Other corrosion forms
Intergranular corrosion: attacks the grain boundaries within the metal structure when the chemical differences between grains and the grain boundaries react with each other in the presence of an electrolytic solution. Usually occurs in areas where end grain is exposed, rivet holes for example. Exfoliation corrosion, where grain layers are lifted away, is an advanced form.

Stress corrosion cracking: occurs when high internal tensile stresses induced in the metal during manufacture are allowed to remain i.e. the metal is not properly stress relieved. A high permanent stress can also be introduced during structure assembly if any of the welding or fastening processes are incorrectly performed. If this residual stress condition or a stress condition introduced during normal operation exists in association with pitting or other corrosion multi-branched internal cracking may occur within the metal.

Filiform corrosion: occurs in high relative humidity conditions under paint coatings such as polyurethane finishes usually because contamination traces were not completely removed from the substrate or a treatment process was not allowed to fully complete before applying the next coating.

Fretting or friction corrosion occurs when vibration or in-flight loads causes oscillatory movement between faying surfaces.

A form of chemical corrosion will occur if incompatible surface coatings come in contact; for example methyl ethyl ketone [used as a solvent in a number of fabric cements] will attack zinc chromate metal primers leaving the metal open to corrosion under the fabric.

Also organic acids are present in bird and animal wastes so keep mice out of the airframe (and by the way you've no idea the damage that mouse urine can do to electronics); and if you operate from a cattle paddock clean off any 'meadow mayonnaise' that accumulates.
10.6 Effect on aluminium alloys
The 6061 magnesium-silicon, 3003 manganese and 5005 magnesium alloys have very high resistance to general corrosion. Copper, which reduces corrosion resistance more than any other element, is the mayor alloying element in the 2024 copper-magnesium-manganese alloy making bare 2024 less resistant to general corrosion than 3003, 6061 and 7075, thus the alclad form of 2024 is often preferred.

Zinc is the major alloying element in the 7075 zinc-magnesium-copper making 7075 most susceptible to stress corrosion cracking, and to intergranular corrosion if heat treatment has been improperly performed. The copper content reduces resistance to general corrosion so 7075 is less resistant to general corrosion than 3003 and 6061, but more resistant than 2024. Often used in the alclad form. Aircraft bolts manufactured from 7075 are usually anodised.
10.7 Corrosion inhibition
Apart from keeping the aircraft clean and free from trapped moisture the materials and methods used to protect metal against corrosion are either to provide an impermeable paint coating to prevent corrosion from starting or an anodic coating which is sacrificed should corrosion start. In some circumstances a corrosion inhibiting compound will inhibit galvanic corrosion. Painting is covered in the surface coatings and finishes module. Sacrificial coatings entail plating or hot-dipping the structural metal with a metal which is anodic to it; cadmium and zinc are anodic to steel so will inhibit corrosion of the steel substrate by acting as a sacrificial coating should surface corrosion develop. Cadmium is generally the standard plating for aircraft AN/MS hardware. Note in the table above that mild steel [line 28] is anodic to plated nickel and chromium [lines 31,32] so should a corrosion cell develop it will be the mild steel that decomposes. (http://www.auf.asn.au/scratchbuilder/corrosion.html)



Obviously, the 1st question is, what type of MG alloy is it?

j.m@talk
09-11-2008, 05:35 PM
Any type of sealant coating, a synthetic one, should do. I don't know what you have over there. here we have things like nufinish, but I'm not sure what your equivalent is.

So a quick wire brush over, & bitta wet & Dry to remove the loose stuff & a coat O' summink synthetic to keep the air away from it huh ..... Fair doos :t

leprechaun_40
09-11-2008, 06:05 PM
Stop having a whizz on them.

j.m@talk
09-11-2008, 06:11 PM
Prolly a good idea ...... Will try & remember that ;)

:t

herosrest
09-11-2008, 07:08 PM
Just spray 'em with clear acrylic.

j.m@talk
09-11-2008, 07:18 PM
Just spray 'em with clear acrylic.

Clear coated nasty lookin' corroded rims huh..... Stick to layin' bricks ero' This is mens work ;)

herosrest
09-11-2008, 11:54 PM
No - then you peel it off.

j.m@talk
09-12-2008, 02:33 PM
You been on the "Angel Dust" again ? :D

I had a whizz over the back of it with the wire brush & some wet n' dry ..... Then slopped some silver Hammerite on there (Well Smooth Hammerite ..... For some reason they don't call it Smoothrite any more, dunno why..... But I digress)

Then I'm gonna ..... When I really feel like I can be acred, spray the front face & glue a pruddy chrome badge in the centre wiv some clear RTV/Bathroom sealer

Will do picks if ya want ;)

Oh I reversed the thing in to a delivery truck today too..... Put a hole in me OSR brake light lens :rolleyes: ..... But not to worry JP has agreed to pay for that ;)

:t

leprechaun_40
09-12-2008, 03:01 PM
Clumsy bugger ;)

j.m@talk
09-12-2008, 04:17 PM
I have reversing beepers too :rolleyes:

leprechaun_40
09-12-2008, 05:22 PM
I have reversing beepers too :rolleyes:
Were you looking around wondering who was backing up? :rolleyes:

j.m@talk
09-12-2008, 05:29 PM
Nahh I had a concrete post right next to me, so my radar beepers were throwing a fit, the radio was on, some silly Moo in a 4X4 was doing daft stuff & generally getting in the way, & I took my eye off the ball for a sec..... & crunch....... Oh yeah ....... That van ...... :mad:

My own fault really ....... A fact that does nothing more than infuriate me, to be honest .... C'est La Vie :t

herosrest
09-12-2008, 06:10 PM
I have reversing beepers too :rolleyes:

Yeah, but they fitted in front.

leprechaun_40
09-12-2008, 06:13 PM
Comes from driving on the wrong side of the road ya know.

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 06:40 PM
Comes from drivin' backwards when ya shouldn't :(

I collected my Lens from Mr Nissan today & fitted it ....... I've done two wheels too ...... Just waiting for my Cheque from "Mr Pnyc" ...... I get the feeling I may be waiting some considerable time ...... Time to send da boyz round me finks :D

Heya is er a "Toby the Tooch" there please?..... Yah its "Pretty buoy Limey" ere ;)

leprechaun_40
09-17-2008, 07:05 PM
That "R" on the gear lever, it means Reverse, not Race.

BadDriver
09-17-2008, 07:07 PM
Comes from driving on the wrong side of the road ya know.


Comes from drivin' backwards when ya shouldn't :(

I collected my Lens from Mr Nissan today & fitted it ....... I've done two wheels too ...... Just waiting for my Cheque from "Mr Pnyc" ...... I get the feeling I may be waiting some considerable time ...... Time to send da boyz round me finks :D

Heya is er a "Toby the Tooch" there please?..... Yah its "Pretty buoy Limey" ere ;)


No, it comes from JM driving...............period. :mad:

Honk!! Honk!! Outta my way mofo! :mad:

Crazy Limey.

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 07:28 PM
I gots to dive in & fix a bulb out on tha' dash too ........ One o' them lil' wedgie un's.... Bulbs that is..... I took em all out a while ago & swapped em fer pruddy blue leds ..... But the leds are a ever so slightly a diff shape & there's just two areas (Behind lil LCD windows) where they kinda vibrate loose & then they sorta go out :( ...... So I gotta whip the dash ta bits, shove the led back & drop a blob O' glue on it..... Can use me new hot gloo gun :D then that's that ..... Oh apart from the refinishing of the last two wheels..... Swap over the bumper for the one that's under the dining table (Only been there 18 months) respray the grilles.... They have all gone dickey since I polished em ..... Kinda eeeeeeeeeew, so will just paint over all the nastiness....... Bitta lacquer here & there & we might just be in shape :rolleyes: .......... I bought a loda reinforced oil pipe for summink ages & ages ago ....... Dunno what I wanted to do wiv that ..... Will have to have a think :(

leprechaun_40
09-17-2008, 07:50 PM
I gots to dive in & fix a bulb out on tha' dash too ........ One o' them lil' wedgie un's.... Bulbs that is..... I took em all out a while ago & swapped em fer pruddy blue leds ..... But the leds are a ever so slightly a diff shape & there's just two areas (Behind lil LCD windows) where they kinda vibrate loose & then they sorta go out :( ...... So I gotta whip the dash ta bits, shove the led back & drop a blob O' glue on it..... Can use me new hot gloo gun :D then that's that ..... Oh apart from the refinishing of the last two wheels..... Swap over the bumper for the one that's under the dining table (Only been there 18 months) respray the grilles.... They have all gone dickey since I polished em ..... Kinda eeeeeeeeeew, so will just paint over all the nastiness....... Bitta lacquer here & there & we might just be in shape :rolleyes: .......... I bought a loda reinforced oil pipe for summink ages & ages ago ....... Dunno what I wanted to do wiv that ..... Will have to have a think :(

Then the engine will toss a rod through the block ;)

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 08:00 PM
Then the engine will toss a rod through the block ;)

Noooooooooooooooooo...... I'll spill my mega expensive Mobil1 :eek:

mireland
09-17-2008, 08:05 PM
Then the engine will toss a rod through the block ;)


toss rod? :D

BadDriver
09-17-2008, 08:13 PM
Noooooooooooooooooo...... I'll spill my mega expensive Mobil1 :eek:


Prolly worth more than the car. :r :r

Lgbpop
09-17-2008, 08:18 PM
I gots to dive in & fix a bulb out on tha' dash too ........ One o' them lil' wedgie un's.... Bulbs that is..... I took em all out a while ago & swapped em fer pruddy blue leds ..... But the leds are a ever so slightly a diff shape & there's just two areas (Behind lil LCD windows) where they kinda vibrate loose & then they sorta go out...... So I gotta whip the dash ta bits, shove the led back & drop a blob O' glue on it..... Can use me new hot gloo gun then that's that ..... Oh apart from the refinishing of the last two wheels..... Swap over the bumper for the one that's under the dining table (Only been there 18 months) respray the grilles.... They have all gone dickey since I polished em ..... Kinda eeeeeeeeeew, so will just paint over all the nastiness....... Bitta lacquer here & there & we might just be in shape.......... I bought a loda reinforced oil pipe for summink ages & ages ago ....... Dunno what I wanted to do wiv that ..... Will have to have a think :(Ya know, your life would be SO much freaking easier if you'd just stop TOUCHING things. :t

Then again, this forum's post count would drop 80%. :eek:

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 08:24 PM
Prolly worth more than the car. :r :r

Definitely ..... Ya wanna see the price of it ..... Ya'd poo ya self...... You wouldn't buy it that's fer sure 0W40 or 15W30 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_21 8746_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varien t__categoryId_77310_crumb__parentcategoryrn_77310# ) £15.99 a litre .... Thats $29.00 for just a smidgen over a Quart..... So we's in to the thick end of $100 for a oil & filter, & that's materials only.....

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 08:32 PM
Ya know, your life would be SO much freaking easier if you'd just stop TOUCHING things. :t

Then again, this forum's post count would drop 80%. :eek:

Life would be sooooooo boring tho' ...... no-one wiv anything to talk about, just babbling bout computaz, I must admit tho I do tend to harp on the things that do go wrong ;)

I commissioned a few alarms this week :eek: for a chum who was pushed & did some really weired shineola with a telephone system which worked 1st time ..... Mind you that was a fluke tho' as I had never touched one of these contraptions before & I had a brain fhrat mid way thro & forgot what I was sposed to be doing :rolleyes:

BadDriver
09-17-2008, 08:39 PM
Definitely ..... Ya wanna see the price of it ..... Ya'd poo ya self...... You wouldn't buy it that's fer sure 0W40 or 15W30 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_21 8746_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varien t__categoryId_77310_crumb__parentcategoryrn_77310# ) £15.99 a litre .... Thats $29.00 for just a smidgen over a Quart..... So we's in to the thick end of $100 for a oil & filter, & that's materials only.....


Mobil1 is just oil. We sure as hell don't pay no $29 a quart for the carp.

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 08:56 PM
Mobil1 is just oil. We sure as hell don't pay no $29 a quart for the carp.

you would if ya was here.... Or ya wouldn't get didly.......

Mobil1 is just expensive oil ........ There yas are :t

leprechaun_40
09-17-2008, 09:25 PM
Yes, Mobil ! is the best stuff out there, I agree. But I think it's only $6 a quart here when I get it for the wifeys car.

Mobil 1 is the only synthetic motor oil I've ever seen written up in Scientific American. Having been a pro auto tech for most my adult life and all, I think it's the best stuff out there.

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 09:28 PM
Gonna nip over wiv a loda suitcases & fill em wiv mobil1 ;)

Anything designer label here is freakin dear ..... Like i-pods etc etc, why pplz play that game I dunno :(

BadDriver
09-17-2008, 10:05 PM
Gonna nip over wiv a loda suitcases & fill em wiv mobil1 ;)

Anything designer label here is freakin dear ..... Like i-pods etc etc, why pplz play that game I dunno :(

Smugglin huh? :mad: Better stick to smugglin something you know how to smuggle; like baloney. :D

j.m@talk
09-17-2008, 10:10 PM
Tiz difficult..... The customs & excise gives yas hooge bills importing that kinda stuff ....... I knows cos I has a chum that brings it in from The US of gawd dang A mixed in wiv machine partz :D

:t