Click to See Complete Forum and Search --> : Brakes ............. Disk ones
j.m@talk
03-02-2005, 09:21 PM
Rotors/Disks
Cooling & Debris fallout
Better to have drilled thro ?
Better to have two plates wiv fins inbetween ?
Should O been a poll this ......
What says yous ?
ukulele
03-02-2005, 10:44 PM
Better to have ones that work then ones that don't. ;)
I say, when as many things go wrong with a car as seem to with yours, you drive it to the wreckers and by another one.
j.m@talk
03-03-2005, 07:22 AM
Originally posted by werz
I say,
Lots O' stuff but no one listens :rolleyes:
mireland
03-03-2005, 08:23 AM
Originally posted by j.m@talk
Lots O' stuff but no one listens :rolleyes:
oooooohhhh....:-@
Happy Joe
03-03-2005, 07:38 PM
I preferr vented 4 wheel discs (2 layers with fins between). Cross drilling for additional ventilation is not normally necessary for the street (don't drill your own unless you actually know what you are doing). Cooling is very important for brakes some performance vehicles duct air to help cool them. I have rarely ever been able to get good disc brakes hot enough to fade (even when racing) although if I were anticipating very heavy use I would remove the dust shields and make certain I had open (but very stiff) patterned wheels.
The 4 wheel discs on my Cj-5 jeep are for an international scout, the calipers are for a Chevrolet 1/2 ton truck. It stops so well that it is almost scary. I patterned the system after the brakes on the corvett that I used to own, and the jeep is quite a bit lighter (although the tires are much more massive).
Enjoy!
ShadeZeRO
03-03-2005, 07:57 PM
Yes vented are **** good...
Just last weekend i had an issue in my friends car with brake cooling....we were at about 110mph for 20 minutes...
when we goto my house...his brakes were so hot..
had to put a glass of water on each one to help it cool down b4 the tires got messed up...
STEAM all over...
vented disk breakes, big disks too..
Billforce
03-03-2005, 11:21 PM
Tossing cold water on red hot disks can warp them, then you really got problems......You'll feel like yer heads in a paint shaker.
ukulele
03-03-2005, 11:55 PM
Originally posted by Billforce
Tossing cold water on red hot disks can warp them, then you really got problems......You'll feel like yer heads in a paint shaker.
They are lucky they didn't shatter. No sense in warning these guys. Driving 110 MPH for 20 minutes with stock tires is dangerous enough and if the brakes were smoking hot as a result they are lucky to be alive.
Originally posted by j.m@talk
Lots O' stuff but no one listens :rolleyes:
Thats why ya got carp on 4 dodgy wheels with more things broken than in a street full of Brit gobs, still when you have to drive on streets made from victorian cobblestones, it doesn't much matter how well ventilated the discs are, the ratio of rubber on the road is more important. )-|
j.m@talk
03-04-2005, 05:37 AM
Don't matter what size ya tyres are on cobblestones........ the slightest bit of moisture & ya slide :D
The local authorities spent hundreds of thousands replacing the cobblestone look at junctions round here to look pretty.
Then they realised that they had put one of the slipperiest surfaces known to man in the 'braking zone' of lots of junctions & wondered why the hospitals were filling up :rolleyes:
So cross drilling as well is snazzy huh, umm righty ho....... :t
krazefinn
03-04-2005, 12:26 PM
The new ceramic pads actually work better the hotter they het, venting,crossdrilling essentially degrades braking performance. However, the hard ceramic or metal impregnated friction material also eats up the rotors faster. Another thing, I never shave the rotors, as that gets them thinner faster, more likely to warp. Just ask the truckers, they do not grind thirs much either, drums/rotors are more expensive than pads/shoes. Just make sure to change frictions in timely fashion to prevent the rivets or backing plates from gouging rotors/drums.
Another thing, if you dont grinf the rotors true, atleast deglaze them, 120-220 grit sandpaper by hand will work. And be sure to bed the pads correctly, avoiding panic stops in first few hundred miles. Many shops reccomend certain "brake-in" (pun intended) techniques, stopping with moderate but not excessive presuures both forwards and backwards, to properly bed in the surfaces, and also allow gradual heating to allow pads to "outgas" (for lack of better term, the frictions need to temper alittle, and get used to the job you demand of them. "Boiling" them by sudden excessive emergency braking when new CAN actually "cook" the pads, severely reducing their future braking efficiency)).
I used to teach shopclass in highschool several years (decades, last century, millenia?? ago!). For normal street driving, venting is really only cosmetic, as even cop cars don't reach the braking requirements of crossdrilling.
However,, like overclocking, some people always demand the best, or fastest...so go for it.
j.m@talk
03-04-2005, 12:40 PM
It really depends where I go ........... If I have to nip over to a clients place in Yorkshire on the hurry up like I have some wild & Groovy hills to go over Sooper steep ..... & Before I changed my Disks recently I used to overheat the brakes (Mainly thro drivin like a dick tho ;) ) I think all will be well now I got new stuff :p
I havent seen friction material riveted on for years :eek: ........ The modern braking systems I'm Au-fait with have sensors & a lil light on the Dash sayin ............ Change ya pads dummy ;)
:t
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