formula1
11-10-2003, 12:04 AM
Can't get a Belkin 800VA UPS to work from a 110/120V 50Hz public power supply. Does anyone know if this is possible?
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leprechaun_40
11-10-2003, 10:06 AM
Um, have ya read the specs in the manuel? I'd start there. If it's supposed to run on 120 VAC, 60hz ( the standard US house current ) and it doesn't, then you have a problem either with your house wiring or the UPS:eek:
By not working just exactly what do you mean? Does it not power up or does it go into alarm like there's no power to it? Some more info would be helpful:t
One other thing, most UPS's come with the battery disconnected for safety during shipping, and they won't work until you connect it. Have you read the installation instructions?
By not working just exactly what do you mean? Does it not power up or does it go into alarm like there's no power to it? Some more info would be helpful:t
One other thing, most UPS's come with the battery disconnected for safety during shipping, and they won't work until you connect it. Have you read the installation instructions?
rmanet
11-10-2003, 11:22 AM
welcome to sysopt :t
try this link (http://www.virtual-hideout.net/reviews/belkin_800va_universal_ups/index.shtml)
pretty good plain language review and guide to getting started
try this link (http://www.virtual-hideout.net/reviews/belkin_800va_universal_ups/index.shtml)
pretty good plain language review and guide to getting started
formula1
11-10-2003, 06:39 PM
Thanks for helping and that link has a lot of info. Get a yellow flashing light and a beep when UPS plugged into AC outlet. Even after charging for 6 hours. Followed the installation instructions and nothing is said about making a battery connection. Link from rmanet didn't mention that battery connection either. I'm in jamaica in the caribbean where we operate at 50Hz instead of 60Hz. I think they use 50Hz and 60Hz in the UK also. Most electronics have a 50/60Hz option but the Belkin 60Hz spec doesn't seem to give a choice. Sought help from Belkin but they didn't reply to my email. I was wondering if anyone knew if the UPS can actually work at 50Hz.
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Rat
11-10-2003, 06:52 PM
That unit is made for 60hz only, the only thing you can do to get that thing to work over there is to get a Frequency converter or phase converter....... good luck.
Rat
Rat
formula1
11-11-2003, 03:53 PM
Thanks for the help. It seems cheaper to buy a new UPS. APC should be a good model. They have 50/60Hz capability.
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Rat
11-11-2003, 05:15 PM
:D
gjimene2
11-11-2003, 06:58 PM
it may also be your wiring!
You need the Hot, Ground and Neutral hooked up so that the UPS won't cry.
You need the Hot, Ground and Neutral hooked up so that the UPS won't cry.
formula1
11-12-2003, 12:06 AM
The spec says 60Hz supply required and I've followed installation instructions. Don't know how to check that hookup.
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gjimene2
11-12-2003, 01:28 AM
you will have to take off the face plate of your receptacle. (Outlet)
Take out the receptacle itself. and look at it.
If it only has a black and white wire hooked up behind/side of it (may have four, two blacks and two whites) then you only have the Hot and Neutral. If you have a single (may be pigtailed from other of the same) bare copper wire, or a green wire on the same side as the white wires (neutral) then it's grounded. Also checking it with a voltage tester or even a multimeter that is capable of handling up to 240 A/C volts will be able to be checked.
You can buy a cheap 1 way voltage tester that will turn on a small light when you hook it up to the hot and neutral/ground side at the same time.
The best way to see if your outlet is wired correctly is to buy one of these (http://www.1-home-improvement.com/product+GB-Electrical-GFI-501A-B00004WLJM.html) doesn't have the be the same brand, just as long as it's the same type of tester :) They are cheap and you will just have to plug it in to test out the receptacle.
The thing that I did when I saw that my receptacle was grounded only by the neutral wire, I pig tailed the ground to the neutral. Don't do that to all of them, pig tailing can be dangerous if there is a short in the line. Even though the Neutral and Ground go to the same grounding bar/s you can still have a short in the neutral while having the ground unshorted. That's why for maximum safety, if you are going to pig tail, get a GFCI receptracle, so incase there is a short where or after a connection is made in the receptacle, the receptacle itself will break all current and help prevent an electrical fire.
More information on the GCFI receptacle (http://doityourself.com/electric/gfci.htm)
More on the GFCI Receptacle (http://www.howstuffworks.com/question117.htm)
Various Images on how one looks like (http://images.google.com/images?num=100&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&newwindow=1&safe=off&q=GFCI&sa=N&tab=wi)
http://www.carlosreef.com/Images/Set-up/Images/gfci.gif
Does it look familiar? You may have one on your kitchen or bath.
Take out the receptacle itself. and look at it.
If it only has a black and white wire hooked up behind/side of it (may have four, two blacks and two whites) then you only have the Hot and Neutral. If you have a single (may be pigtailed from other of the same) bare copper wire, or a green wire on the same side as the white wires (neutral) then it's grounded. Also checking it with a voltage tester or even a multimeter that is capable of handling up to 240 A/C volts will be able to be checked.
You can buy a cheap 1 way voltage tester that will turn on a small light when you hook it up to the hot and neutral/ground side at the same time.
The best way to see if your outlet is wired correctly is to buy one of these (http://www.1-home-improvement.com/product+GB-Electrical-GFI-501A-B00004WLJM.html) doesn't have the be the same brand, just as long as it's the same type of tester :) They are cheap and you will just have to plug it in to test out the receptacle.
The thing that I did when I saw that my receptacle was grounded only by the neutral wire, I pig tailed the ground to the neutral. Don't do that to all of them, pig tailing can be dangerous if there is a short in the line. Even though the Neutral and Ground go to the same grounding bar/s you can still have a short in the neutral while having the ground unshorted. That's why for maximum safety, if you are going to pig tail, get a GFCI receptracle, so incase there is a short where or after a connection is made in the receptacle, the receptacle itself will break all current and help prevent an electrical fire.
More information on the GCFI receptacle (http://doityourself.com/electric/gfci.htm)
More on the GFCI Receptacle (http://www.howstuffworks.com/question117.htm)
Various Images on how one looks like (http://images.google.com/images?num=100&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&newwindow=1&safe=off&q=GFCI&sa=N&tab=wi)
http://www.carlosreef.com/Images/Set-up/Images/gfci.gif
Does it look familiar? You may have one on your kitchen or bath.
gjimene2
11-12-2003, 01:33 AM
As a master electrician, I must say that this site is pretty good as a how-to-reference.
Just scroll down or type in CTRL+F and type in GFCI and agree on the terms for the animated tutorial :) (http://www1.diynet.com/diy/pac_ctnt/text/0,2019,DIY_14161_13903,00.html)
Just scroll down or type in CTRL+F and type in GFCI and agree on the terms for the animated tutorial :) (http://www1.diynet.com/diy/pac_ctnt/text/0,2019,DIY_14161_13903,00.html)
Rat
11-12-2003, 06:19 PM
Formula, your'e in Jamaica....definately 50hz (I know, been down there working on boats with frequency probs). Take that Belkin back and get a UPS that works on 50hz such as the APC you mentioned. As others here have pointed out, checking the polarity is a good idea, but will not get that Belkin working over there.
Rat
Rat
formula1
11-12-2003, 11:30 PM
I've heard you Rat. Will try and get the APC.
Thanks
Thanks
gjimene2
11-13-2003, 12:22 AM
I can get that Belkin working over there.
Just get a generator :D
btw, I didn't see that it was at 50hz, :eek:
Just get a generator :D
btw, I didn't see that it was at 50hz, :eek:
formula1
11-14-2003, 10:42 PM
Couldn't stand the noise from that generator. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.
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