I've got money to blow

[Tekkitan]

Ok, I have a little dilemma here (if that is how you spell it). I have decided I want to buy an Asus A7V mobo with a AMD Duron 700mhz, but then I also have to buy a video card and RAM. Right now I have a half burned out HP computer (only a year old, burned out from someone flipping my p/s to the 220v switch, grrr). Well, I was wondering what would be best. I have $350 US money to spend. I could get the A7V and Duron, a cheap video card (not too cheap), and 128mb of RAM, or I can stick with my PIII 450mhz and try and get a Asustek V7700 64mb Deluxe w/ tv-out. I want some good opinions please, and tips, whatever, to aid me in this little decision problem I have.

[flash4master]

a7v -$125+shipping
duron 700 -$60+shipping
geforce 2mx 32mb -$103+shipping
micron pc133 128mb -$59+shipping

total - 347 w/o shipping
all from pricewatch

[zskillz]

i'll email u my address, and you can rest assured that any extra money will be well spent by me!! http://sysopt.earthweb.com/forum/wink.gif
-Z

[Tekkitan]

Thanks Flash for your reply, i already went through pricewatch and i tore it apart looking for stuff. I got all the same prices but I dont know what to do, i guess i am just going to have to make this decision on my own, and not to send it to anyone ;p (zskillz for example)

[thekingofpain]

Ummm, just pondering here, if your wall outlet provides roughly 110V...how did you get 220V from it to "toast" half of your PC???...I could benefit from that secret...please advise...(I see you did mention "US" after your dollar amount, im not so familiar with power in other countrys, could that be it???

EDIT---> yer in Ohio, ok give it up whats the secret to getting 220 from a 110 outlet??

[This message has been edited by thekingofpain (edited 12-09-2000).]

[Rat]

Hey King.... I'd like some of what your'e drinking http://sysopt.earthweb.com/forum/smile.gif, Tek said the switch on his comp was switched to the 220V setting, not that 220V came out of his wall socket.

Rat...

[thekingofpain]

Correct Mr Rat---so tell me HOW would that create a prob if there is only 110V available???
Maybe im missin something, or do YOU know how to create 220V from a 110V outlet???
I am positive tho, unless you can tell me otherwise, that flippin the p/s 110/220 switch can not magically "create" 220V that will go thru your machine and "burn half of it out"...




[This message has been edited by thekingofpain (edited 12-09-2000).]

[drn]

thekingofpain is right if you swith it to 220 and you only have 110 it will do nothing at all to the sys.As it will not even power the supply up with only 110 going into it the last sys i built the power supply was whitched to 220 when i got it and never looked to see if it was until i could not get it to power up when i got every thing together. It would not even turn the fan on in the powersupply


Worm try it to yours you will see it will not power up at all

[Worm]

pain, you're missing what has been said here. The switch on the computer power supply was set to 220. The oulet produces 110v, by doing this your power supply is running on half what it should be, this can cause excess heat to build and eventually burn it out... (just like your ceiling fan, if you start it on low it puts extra loads on the motor and it will burn out sooner than it would starting on high) If the motherboard is attempting to run on a lower voltage the same can happen to it. Most of the parts, like the CPU, Ram and I/O cards have voltage regulators and should not be harmed. You may be able to get away with just a new power supply, maybe $10-$20, but if you are at 450MHz and want to go faster, a new mobo and cpu might be the way to go.
Worm

[Tekkitan]

thekingofpain, why are you being such an *deleted* ? have you ever looked on the back of a power supply? Where there is a 110v or something of that sort, maybe 115, and a 220-230 setting, your not supposed to have it on the 220-230 setting,m which it was, and that will burn out the computer. you have to stop being so mean or you'll go through life *deleted*, not pain

*edited*-Mntsnow. I think you had better take heed of Socalgal's posts listed below http://sysopt.earthweb.com/forum/frown.gif

[This message has been edited by Mntsnow (edited 12-14-2000).]

[randy48]

Here's the deal, when the switch is set to 220 Volts it is wanting 50Hz, not 60Hz. The faster cycle rate fryed it.

To get 220 out of the wall run two cables from different breakers and connect both hot wires to the outlet (110 to each side)

[thekingofpain]

Feel free to retract Tekkitan, bottom line is, flipping the switch will NOT allow 220v to go thru your computer...Calling members names (using expletive deleteds) will get you no-where here, wise up...(you will see)

[socalgal]

Tekkitan

As a Member with 44 posts, you should be familiar by now with the Number One rule around here: Don't call other members out of their names. That means no name-calling, no disrespecting of another.

I don't care how pissed off you are, it's not allowed. Period. If you can't control your language, refrain from posting until such time comes when you have gained control.

You'll find any help hard to come by in these forums with the attitude displayed above.




[This message has been edited by socalgal (edited 12-14-2000).]

[DemonKnight]

Um you guys ever take apart your powersuply? there are capasitors in there can hold up 200v each (at least in mine) what that means is that the 110 coming from the wall will charge those caps to their maximum (400v totatl) so that there arent power shortages in normal use. but there should be power regulators keeping that from getting to much power to the components, so i dont know how it fried parts unless you had some bad regulators or excessive heat problems. (OH yea your not supposed to take your powersuply apart, but I dont like warning lables. mainly cause those 200v caps keep that cahrge for a wile and can fry your *** if you touch the leads.) correct me if wrong here.

[justy]

In defence of the KING,

I have to confess, I don't understand?

I've built Switch mode power supplies, for P.C.s, UPS's, and T.V. circuit's. Here we have a 220v supply 50hz, the addition of the 110v 60hz, is only a matter of changing to a different winding on the transformer, the freq's are usually neglegable on DC supplies.

Therefore;
Plugging a 110v PSU into a 220v socket will make the PSU upset, and may cause meltdown of the smoothing capacitors on the output.
Plugging a 220v PSU into a 110v supply might not even start the PSU up, and is incredibly unlikely to kill it. ( What your saying happened ).

You may have a different problem?

All the best, Justy.


The edited part for demonknight:

If you want to stop frying yourself, when you have the board out and disconnected from the main power! , discharge the Cap's by running a ( hold an insulated handle )long screwdriver across the print side of the board, you'll see a couple of spark's, but hey save's the chest and hair a little, a bit crude, but effective.


[This message has been edited by justy (edited 12-14-2000).]

[gjwilson]

Since the power thing was/is not the subject of this thread I`ll give some help to the original topic.Tekkitan...I can`t help with the specific parts but I just ordered a barebones unit from Wintec Industries. It includes a Thunderbird 750 with heatsink and fan on a Gigabyte mobo with 128 mb of pc100 in a mid case w/power supply for $349 shipped.You can find them at www.wintecind.com (http://www.wintecind.com) goodluck. Gary

[DemonKnight]

I didnt fry my self. I was just fixing the fan. (i'm not dumb though, we had to take a saftey test thing in my electronics class that was 50 or 60 questsions and we were allowed to miss only one question. Some of the stuff though I wont ever see, like RF radition from Radio towers, I plan to work in computers (programing mainly) so Radio Towers probably wont be on my agenda. )